Burnishing with a Hammer head

When setting stones in your jewelry pieces, proper burnishing is essential for securing the stone and creating a professional finish. In this guide, I'll walk you through the technique of using a hammer head as a burnisher - a versatile method that helps create a smooth, secure setting for your gemstones.

Materials You'll Need

• Jewelry vice with protective padding (moleskin recommended, see other blog post)
• Hammer with a polished, rounded flat end
• Stone-set piece ready for burnishing
• Burnishing tool (optional, for finishing touches)

Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace

Begin by securing your piece in a padded vice:

• Line your vice with moleskin to prevent marking your silver
• Position your piece securely but not overly tight
• Tighten just enough to prevent the piece from twisting during work

Pro Tip: You only need the vice tight enough to hold the piece steady - overtightening can distort your work.

Step 2: Position Your Hands for Control

Proper hand positioning is crucial for controlled burnishing:

• Hold the hammer with three fingers wrapped around the handle
• Place two fingers on the hammer head for precise control
• Keep your grip firm but relaxed to allow smooth movement

Step 3: The Burnishing Technique

Rather than hammering, you'll use a rocking motion:

1. Position the rounded end of the hammer at the edge of your setting
2. Apply gentle pressure while rocking the hammer head up and over the edge
3. Use a slight wobbling motion to gradually work the metal over the stone
4. Move around your piece methodically, working all edges evenly
5. Occasionally rotate your piece in the vice to access different angles

Pro Tip: This is not a hammering motion - think of it as "rolling" the metal with controlled pressure.

Step 4: Refine with Traditional Burnisher

For areas that need extra attention:

• Switch to a traditional burnisher for precision work
• Use as many fingers as possible on the tool for maximum control
• Focus on any spots where the metal hasn't fully tightened around the stone
• Pay special attention to any air pockets along the edges

Step 5: Check Your Work

A properly burnished setting should have:

• No edges sticking out
• A smooth, slightly beveled edge around the stone
• No visible air pockets between the metal and stone
• A tight, secure fit all the way around

Troubleshooting Tips

• Air Pockets: If you notice small air pockets, use the tip of your burnisher to gently "burp" them out
• Uneven Edges: Work slowly around the entire piece, giving extra attention to areas that need more burnishing
• Metal Not Laying Flat: Sometimes you need to alternate between the hammer head and traditional burnisher for best results

Final Thoughts

Burnishing with a hammer head gives you excellent control and leverage when setting stones. With practice, you'll develop a feel for just how much pressure to apply and how to move the tool for perfect results every time. This technique creates a professional finish that securely holds your stones while maintaining a clean, polished appearance.

Remember that proper burnishing is what keeps your stones from shifting or falling out, so take your time with this crucial step in the jewelry-making process.